The Wild Table - Part Two
THE WILD TABLE - PART TWO
In the shaded woods around Watkins Glen State Park, I spent a morning with Stacey Esterbrook, a veteran mushroom forager and educator who has spent years teaching others how to read the forest floor. Stacey has trained her eye to notice the most minor shifts in color, texture, and shape. Where I saw only damp leaves and branches, she noticed the first signs of chanterelles pushing through the soil.
That day, the forest offered a mix of treasures. We found clusters of tiny golden chanterelles, just beginning their season, and bright, almost glowing cinnabar-red chanterelles along the edges of trails. At one point, our search led us to an Amanita Jacksonii, a mushroom with a long culinary history. It was not the chanterelle we had been looking for, but for those with the skill to identify and prepare it, the amanita is just as prized. There are many poisonous and toxic Amanita (with fun names like The Death Cap and The Destroying Angel. Stacey's excitement at our bright orange egg-shaped surprise said everything about her deep connection to these forests.
This story is the second chapter in The Wild Table, a year-long project exploring seasonal foraging and the people who carry its traditions forward. The first chapter took place in early spring, gathering ramps with chef Jeremy. Now, as summer fades into fall, the project will continue to follow the changing landscape, adding new harvests and new stories along the way.
"The forest speaks in patterns — you just have to learn the language." — Stacey Esterbrook, Forager & Educator
A note of caution: mushroom foraging should only be done with proper training. Many wild mushrooms are toxic, and some are deadly. Even edible species often have dangerous look-alikes. For this project, I worked with Stacey specifically to ensure every mushroom was identified correctly and handled safely. If you are interested in foraging, always go with an experienced instructor before collecting or eating anything from the wild.
